Dining is a dance among the maitre’d, the wait staff, the chef, and the customer. The best restaurants perform graceful ballets, while fast food places offer quick fox trots. You might not understand what I mean, so I’ll share some ideas and experiences.
About 40 years ago, a group of us visited a now-defunct restaurant in Del Mar called Delmarios. It was New Year’s Eve, and only one seating was offered. They served a multi-course menu, accompanied by champagne.
A band played, and the mood was festive. Throughout the evening, the wine and champagne flowed, and people began to dance between the tables. Eventually, a conga line formed, and staff, patrons, and musicians were winding their way to the music through the small restaurant. A community, albeit an intoxicated one, had been born. The spirit within the group was one of joy and excitement. Even the biggest curmudgeon couldn’t help but feel exalted in such a setting.
One winter, a group of friends and I dined at a French restaurant in Snowmass, Colorado. We enjoyed a delicious meal with excellent service, and our group felt euphoric after a tough day of skiing. As was my habit then, I asked if the chef could come out so we could thank him. They often did, and it was always a fun experience.
Within a couple of minutes, a classic, older French man in a white apron and checkered pants arrived at our table with a bottle of Calvados and six glasses. He poured everyone, including himself, a drink, chatted amiably, drank his shot, and then went back to the kitchen. It capped off a perfect evening.
The most enjoyable dance of all happens at Mille Fleurs Restaurant in Rancho Santa Fe. Parking is always available right in front of the restaurant, and soon Marko, the maître d', arrives with his usual firm handshake. He always knows my name, and we exchange warm greetings as he guides us to our table inside or on the elegantly decorated patio. As we walk, several waiters I recognize greet us, so by the time we reach our table, we've already built a bond based on friendship and goodwill.
The service at Mille Fleurs is consistently excellent. The multiple servers are courteous, friendly, and knowledgeable. However, they never overstep or interfere with the experience. They enhance the visit without dictating it—that’s our role as guests. They create a welcoming atmosphere by providing superb food and drinks in an elegant setting.
In college, there was a delicatessen called Elsie’s, a few blocks from my dorm. They served excellent corned beef and roast beef sandwiches, along with potato salad and a dill pickle. Every night at 11:30 PM, when the library closed, the place was packed with hungry students. Elsie and her husband were friendly and welcoming and never seemed flustered by the rush of students. The sandwiches cost fifty cents each and were made with generous portions of deli meats. Graduates often returned to Elsie’s to enjoy a deli treat or share the experience with loved ones. It was a sad day when the shop closed in 1995.